Wednesday 18th February 2009

Back from the Kepler Track! A really enjoyable yomp through beech forest, over a mountain saddle and back through forest and a river gorge over four days. We started on Saturday with fantastic weather - clear blue skies all round. Being purists, we walked in to the start of the track from Te Anau, a 50min walk around the lake through a wildlife reserve next to a golf course featuring a good example of the lesser-spotted-bagofbats carrier. The track starts at the control gates between lake Te Anau and the river Waiau. A pleasant stroll through the forest, before a seemingly endless zig-zag ascent, through the bush, to the open fell. Fab views of the Te Anau basin and the ranges of moutains surrounding it. Day one of the walk was done; it was only 30min to the Luxmore Hut (1085m) where we spent the night. A wonderful situation, we brewed a pot of tea (no beer i'm afraid) and sat on the terrace in the sun enjoying the panorama in front of us. Day two was the spectacular day; a long ridge walk interspersed with an ascent of Mt. Luxmore, at 1472m the high point of the walk. As luck would have it we woke to low cloud, wind and rain, so it was goretex on and get on with it. A drawback of the Great Walks is that, if the weather is bad, there is no delaying for a day to wait for it to improve; there are people who need the hut that night, you have to move on. It was a bit like walking on Snowdon on a normal day - get wet and no view! We summited Mt. Luxmore - quick photo of a rather damp Kate hanging onto the trig and down. After a while the cloud did start to move about and we got a few tantalising glimpses of what could lie beyond. We then descended a hanging valley and prehistoric looking forest to the Iris Burn Hut; night 2s venue. In a lovely forest clearing but filled with malevolent sandflies. They still seem to prefer the taste of Paul though. Another gourmet freeze-dried meal and off to bed to dream of fish and chips; only the sound of a kiwi screech to disturb the quiet. Day three was a steady tramp down the Iris Burn through forest and clearings. We passed the site of an enormous landslip some 25 years ago. The scar on the hillside is still evident and the rock fall still lies strewn about the valley. In the afternoon the sun came out and the light dappled through the green of the forest. You could almost drink the cool greeness, if you know what I mean! Night 3s hut was on the shore of Lake Manupouri, set back from a lovely beach with views across the lake towards the pass leading to Doubtful Sound (photo). By now it was a gorgeous sunny afternoon and we whiled away an hour or two reading on the sand. Kate would have swum but had forgotten to pack a swimsuit. Reconstituted Honey Soy Chicken for tea, then back to the beach to enjoy a lovely sunset. Yesterday was an easy walkout up the Waiau river back to the control gates. Did that first beer taste good! Last night we had a belated Valentines Day meal, in the NZ version of the Fleece (at about two thirds the price for those familiar with the Witney eatery) called the Fat Duck. Fab food and a bottle of the Ned! (for those who know our wine habits!). People were queuing for a table and on a Tuesday night. We've booked for Sunday - a post Milford Track celebration!